Art Deco Jewellery
Art Dcor jewelry evolved from the Art Nouveau (meaning new art) trend that was bridging the artistic world from the end of the 19th into the beginning of the 20th century. The changing styles occurred over a span of 30 years, covering the fields of architecture, textiles, furniture, glass, pottery, interior design, posters, book illustration, etc. It was emphasized by smooth lines that were often undulating and curving.
Paris was the focus of this new phenomenon, and the main stage for the display of these changing artistic styles was a shop in the city called La Maison de lart Nouveau , the house of the new art which was established in 1896 by the renowned art dealer, Siegfried Bing. It was because of the popularity of the exhibits in this shop that the term Art Nouveau became applied to the whole new trend.
Following the First World War, the changing social order and the emergence of a prosperous middle class gave rise to a new freedom of expression. This extended to all the artistic fields as well. Women had already learnt to take the responsibilities of their counterparts on their own shoulders and the increased employment opportunities available to them made them financially independent. The need to express individualistic tastes led to many dramatic changes in concepts of fashion, with designers recognizing the determination of women to look different. This trend soon extended to the jewelry industry also, with Parisian designers taking the initiative. Designs that would have been considered tasteless and outrageous suddenly became acceptably fashionable and smart. The new designs became internationally famous following their exposure at an exhibition held in Paris in 1925. The exhibition was called the Exposition des Arts Dcoratifs et Industriels Moderns. The new designs acquired the label Art Deco after the exhibition that made them up to standard within the major fashion circles.
The Materials, Designs and Colors
The essential characteristic of Art Dcor ornaments was the use of non-traditional objects, shapes and colors. They needed to be strikingly attractive without appearing tasteless. These were the times of mechanization and Jazz, technological innovation and creative thinking. The artistic world was inclined and got very much influenced by these same sweeping emotions. Designers used geometrical shapes either singly or in combination to come up with imaginative creations that were appealing, elegant and sophisticated. They could be squares, circles, ovals, triangles, rectangles, multi-sided, etc. Combination and fusion of different shapes provided the craftsmen with ample scope for originality. The end product needed to capture the mood of the times, so they had to be clear, sleek and precise designs, being as streamlined and uncomplicated as possible. The colors applied were bold, and distinguishing rather than flashy. The materials used varied from the precious rubies, gold, and pearls to the ordinary colored plastic, chrome and steel. Platinum replaced gold as the most precious metal and it was used with opaque stones such as coral, jade, onyx and lapis lazuli. Even costume jewelry adapted to the change, becoming sensationally attractive.
New names began attracting the limelight in the jewelry fashion centers. Among them the prominent were Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. Others included the Swiss designer, Jean Dunand, Rene Lalique, Gerard Sandoz, Jean Despres, Sybil Dunlop, Harold Stabler, H.G.Murphy, George Jensen, William Spratling, Raymond Templier, Paul Emile Brandt, Louis Cartier, Gabriel Argy Rousseau, Ravasco, Theodor Fahrner and a host of others. All of them accepted the challenge for change and made significant contributions. Over the years others followed their footsteps, always looking for something new.
These American, English and European designers were influenced by designs from all over the world. Africa, Egypt, India, the Orient, Cubism, Futurism, graphic design, etc. Many applied themes from nature to their jewelry, using precious metals to imprint the texture of objects like twigs, bark, leaves etc. Red and black lacquered and enameled jewelry, dangling earrings, ear clips, brooches, bracelets all started taking on a variety of new shapes and designs. Abstract Expressionists from America began making their influence felt.
The need for expressive colors led to experimenting with the combination of gems in ornaments. Mixing sapphires, emeralds, amethysts, aquamarines, spinels, turquoise, and other colorful gems became fashionable. The traditional method of treating metals in ornaments gave way to innovative techniques. The surface was blistered and different colored semi-precious stones were set in them. Metals were coupled together for special effects. A retail outlet called Artwear contributed significantly to promoting creative jewelry designs that used innovative craftwork.
Art Dcor reached its golden heights during the 1930s, which then found a permanent place in the fashionable circles of ornamental jewelry. It was essentially the artistic spirit challenging the traditionalist. The traditional principle involved evaluating ornamental jewelry on the basis of the cost of the precious metals and stones it comprised of. The appraisal of Art Dcor jewelry assessed its worth according to its artistic value also. The name of the designer alone could increase its value. The traditional big names in the industry like Cartier, Tiffany Bulgari, Garrards Boucheron, and Asprey still offer quality jewelry valued for their precious metals and gems. But artistic content in ornamental jewelry is becoming an increasingly important for the more discerning clientele of today. Art Dcor jewelry entered the fashion circle at the right time when it was needed.
Other Articles
