Princess cut diamond rings
Man's fascinating association with precious stones and metals goes back to very ancient times. For many centuries the most treasured metal has been gold, with platinum gaining popularity in comparatively recent times. Even though many precious stones are very much in demand, especially those with larger carat weight and of very good quality, there is no doubt that diamonds hold the top spot. Unlike platinum, diamonds have been regarded as prized possessions for centuries. The most valuable diamonds - top quality stones having larger carat weight - have always been in the possession of rulers and other affluent members of society.
Both diamond and platinum are valued for their rarity, durability and glitter. But what really brings out the best in a top quality diamond is the manner in which it is cut. Each rough stone is carefully assessed by expert cutters, who then decide the final size and shape of the finished diamond. No matter how big it may be, a diamond without sparkle has considerably reduced value. A very good quality stone, with good clarity and color, can be utterly ruined through improper cutting. The type and precision of the cut will determine the sparkle of the stone.
History of the Princess Cut:
There are several traditional as well as modern (sometimes called modified or fancy) cuts for diamonds. They include the round brilliant, princess, mixed princess, emerald, radiant, heart, asscher, cushion, marquise, pear, oval, baguette, rose, etc. The different cuts were perfected to ensure that each rough stone would retain the maximum possible carat weight while displaying the maximum amount of brilliant sparkle. The type of cut will be determined by the shape and depth of the stone, and the number of faces that can be cut on it. The generally accepted factors that cutters apply are: 1- crown height, 2- pavilion depth, 3- table diameter, 4- girdle thickness, 5- crown angle, 6- pavilion angle. Position of inclusions and flaws will also influence the decision. Modern technology allows cutters to use computers to help them make a proper choice.
The princess cut for diamonds originated around 1960. There are several theories concerning its conception, but the commonly accepted version is that it was perfected by A.Nagi of London. The style is also credited to the South African jeweler, Basil Watermeyer. He called it the 'Barion Cut', a combination of his own name and that of his wife, Marion. Another theory connects the cut with the 'profile cut' developed around the same time.
Choice of the Princess Cut:
The traditional round brilliant cut has always been the popular choice of cutters since it gives the maximum sparkle and most stones are suitable for it. The princess cut is essentially a squared round brilliant cut. It is even referred to as a modified round brilliant cut. But some rough stones are naturally shaped for other cuts that will allow them to retain maximum carat weight as well as sparkle. A stone with depth and a squarish shape will automatically suggest a princess cut, which permits a large retention of original carat weight and thereby reduces the rate per carat of the finished stone. The emerald cut and the baguette are preferred for stones that are more rectangle or oval shaped. The marquise cut is preferred for thin stones. But the advantage of the princess cut is that produces considerably more sparkle than other square cuts. This is because of the additional faceting, which causes more internal reflection and outward sparkle. Slight inclusions and variations in color can be easily concealed. Proper application of the princess cut can produce a finished diamond with a lot more brilliance and size and yet carry a very reasonable price tag.
However the princess cut does have some limitations that need to be considered. A rough stone that does not have sufficient depth may not produce sufficient sparkle with this cut. It should never be applied to a stone that is more suited for the traditional round brilliant cut, as this will result in loss of carat weight as well as potential sparkle in the finished stone. The design for the setting should be selected with professional advice to prevent damage to the stone. Since the fragile corners are liable to be damaged if the setting is not done by an expert, special attention must be given to this factor when designing the ornament that will hold the stone. Cropping the corners of the stone will protect it from chipping, but may cause reduction in sparkle if not done properly.
Conclusion:
The dazzling white fire that sparkles out of a
diamond is most evident in a round brilliant cut. That is why it is so
common. And that is why a person looking for something distinguishing may
be tempted to prefer the princess cut. Its brilliance exceeds that of any
of the other modified square cuts, mainly because it is able to keep minor
flaws sufficiently concealed. If there are no budgetary constraints, when
compared to a round brilliant cut the princess cut makes it possible to get
a much larger stone of good quality, having with a lot of sparkle. And if
monetary considerations are relevant, it is possible to get a good stone for
a lesser amount. The elegance of a princess
cut diamond can be far more attractive than the sparkle of a round brilliant
cut if the stone is of very good quality and is cut by an expert.
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